June 2018 – We arrived in Seattle to rendezvous with the brand new, gorgeous Norwegian vessel “Bliss”. Before embarking to the Great North, we spent time exploring Seattle’s beautiful Post Alley and Pike Place Market as well as Chihuly Glass Gardens, where acres of massive glass artwork adorn the grounds. Outside sits a transformed Airstream, converted into a mobile kiln for a personal glass-blowing exhibitions. After boarding the massive Norwegian Bliss, we set off on our journey out of Elliot Bay (Seattle’s portion of Puget Sound) and then Westward around Vancouver Island. A full day at sea left us completely shocked, as we were glued to the balcony, eyes downward into the water watching massive Ocean Sunfish (Mola Mola) skirt by nearly every other minute. The waters of the pelagic Pacific were peppered with these giant, flat fish, many of them sporting long, stringy parasites trailing off of them.
We awoke the next morning as we approached Ketchikan, Alaska, skirting around Mountain Point (where we were set to snorkel in a few hours) when a solitary Orca rolled and swam by, blowing trails of mist into the still air. After disembarking into the fog, we traveled the handful of miles to Mountain Point, where the craggy coastline meets the frigid water. Donning 7mm wetsuits, hoods, gloves, and boots, we slipped into a soup of jellyfish that covered the top layer of the freezing waters. Thick, colorful starfish blanketed the bottom and our guide found a huge, bright yellow Lemon Nudibranch. Massive Lion’s Mane Jellyfish peppered the dark water with brilliant orange hues and long stringy tentacles. We never expected these cold waters to be brimming with brilliant and colorful life. Leaving Ketchikan, the Bliss slipped westward into the Pacific and rounded Cape Decision where the lighthouse beacon beckoned us northward into the most beautiful sunset I’ve ever seen.
The next destination was the capital city, Juneau, which welcomed us with the most gorgeous weather – bright blue cloudless sky, sunny, warm, the colors of the city vibrant and alive. We set off beyond the city to conquer Mendenhall Glacier. Gearing up with snow pants and sharp, studded snow boots, we looked outside to see the helicopters arrive. We boarded the chopper and glided up above the treeline where eagles were soaring about. Up and above the green forestry and soon into the beautiful white and blue mountain peaks we went. Hooking around the backside of the glacier, we looked down on a sled-dog encampment – our destination. The helicopter touched down onto Mendenhall and we walked up to the Iditarod summer training camp. Teams of dogs and their trainers were eager to take us on a jaunt around the glacier, where they worked together to easily navigate the snow and ice. All the sounds of the world faded away, and the sharp, crisp noises of the dogs’ paws and the sled slipping through the glacier were loud in the most beautiful and welcomed way. Driving across Mendenhall, the sun poured down on us, bouncing across the snow and creating a gorgeous icy tapestry – being led by a team of obedient and accomplished animals through the snow under the brilliant blue sky remains one of the most distinct and awesome memories I have.
Leaving Juneau, we traveled south and were gifted with another few hours of great weather which allowed our massive ship to coast slowly into Endicott Arm and towards Dawes Glacier. Seasonal glacier melt sometimes prevents safe passage – but, again, we were lucky. As we slipped down the narrowing passageway, the Alaskan splendor drew a massive crowd as nearly every balcony on both sides of the ship were occupied with spectators. Deep blue mini-icebergs floated by, some sporting seal passengers, some cracking and booming as the ship’s wake awoke them. Streams from high mountain peaks turned into waterfalls and runoffs at the water’s edge, creating an incredibly beautiful turquoise water color. Nearing the end of Endicott Arm, the enormous ship did a slow pirouette, gifting all sides of the vessel with views of Dawes Glacier, a magnificent frozen river of ice carving out the surrounding landscape. That night, as we steamed back out to sea and continuing north, a rare atmospheric phenomenon reared its stunning face. Noctilucent clouds appeared on the horizon – these ice crystal ‘clouds’ shone impressively during astronomical twilight ending a gorgeous day with an unusual and unforgettable light show to say goodnight.
Skagway soon welcomed us with rugged coastline which stood at the foot of steep, deeply green Alaskan wilderness. We boarded the White Pass Railway, which sported vintage passenger coaches and famous yellow and green engines ready to lead us up into Yukon Territory. The 40 mile journey, up and back to 2885ft elevation chronicles the efforts of many who hiked relentlessly up into the Klondike Trail in search of gold fortune – unsuccessfully. Trestles, waterfalls, gorges flew by as we leaned off the back of our train car, posturing for images out into the chilly air flowing by. Cruising through tunnels carved into the mountainside left us in pitch dark before emerging back out into the bright, lush forest once again. At the summit, we soaked in beautiful mountain views framed by the train cars leading out in front of us.
The rugged beauty of Alaska seems boundless. We barely scratched the surface of the varied and exciting adventures available in this beautiful land. We plan on returning to Alaska soon to photograph bears and explore more at the tip of the Aleutian Islands, Homer, and then eastward into more unknown (but surely exciting) expeditions…